A Review on Formulation and Evaluation of Shampoo
Sayali Zanje*, Namrata S. Ghorpade, Vaishnavi Salunkhe
YSPM’S YTC Faculty of Pharmacy, Satara, Maharashtra, India.
*Corresponding Author E-mail: sayalirzanje@gmail.com
ABSTRACT:
A shampoo is a washing product that usually contains surfactants that safely remove oil, debris, and dead skin cells from the scalp and hair. Various anti-fungal compounds are used in traditional hair care treatments to cure dandruff. Nevertheless, these products frequently have unfavorable side effects such headaches, itching, nausea, increased scalp irritation, and hair loss. A herbal anti-dandruff shampoo was created with an emphasis on efficacy and safety to treat this problem. In order to make a mild yet effective dandruff treatment, this herbal composition combines natural substances like Shikakai, Marshmallow root, and Neem powder with necessary chemicals like sodium lauryl sulfate and glycerin. This shampoo seeks to effectively reduce dandruff while lowering the possibility of side effects typically connected to chemical-based substitutes by utilizing the power of botanical extracts.
KEYWORDS: Hair, Scalp health, Dandruff control, Antifungal agent, Hair care product, Shampoo.
Since ancient times, cosmetics have been in great demand due to their safe and stylish properties. Products that include physiologically active ingredients are receiving greater attention these days. cosmetics that use natural ingredients in their formulas and designs. Cosmetics are substances that mimic the effects of prescription or over-the-counter medications.
In the modern world, cosmetics play a significant role. A growing trend in almost every business, including cosmetics, is the adoption of a more natural lifestyle. The usage of herbal cosmetics has increased within the personal care system. Cosmetic items are materials or preparations that are used to improve or change the way the human body looks, smells, or feels. They are topically administered to the body's skin, hair, nails, and other exposed areas.
Shampoo is a cosmetic product used to clean the scalp and hair. A range of substances, including as binders, coloring agents, solvents, surfactants, and preservatives, are included in its formulation. Shampoo got its name from the expansion of the Indian word capon, which meaning "push," to encompass "the act of washing hair."
Shampoos in a number of different forms, including as spray, lotion, cream, jelly, powder, and liquid. Certain substances can be used to make shampoos for different purposes, like as conditioning, antidandruff, baby, beauty, and so forth. Since ancient times, people have used herbs to strengthen and heal their hair. Herbal shampoos are more common since customers still prefer natural sources over synthetic ones in the modern world. Shampoo is essentially a liquid, solid, or powdered mixture of a surfactant that, when properly applied, gets rid of oil, dirt, and skin debris from the hair shaft without causing any damage to it.1
1. What is shampoo? A shampoo can be defined as a cosmetic preparation that is packaged in an easy-to-use manner and is intended for the purpose of shampooing the hair and scalp. Its main purpose is to rid the hair of accumulated sebum, debris from the scalp, and leftovers from hair grooming products. Shampoo's further uses include bulking, lubrication, conditioning, preventing static electricity, medication, and more.2
2. A significant cosmetic issue, dandruff is a serious public health hazard in both industrialized and underdeveloped nations. This Anglo-Saxon term, which combines the words "tan" (meaning "tatter") and "drof" (meaning "dirty"), is called "dandruff" (dandriffe). Scaling, itching, andredness are the hallmarks of dandruff, a chronic scalp ailment.2
a. Shampoo in Powder form
b. Shampoo with Lotion
c. Shampoo in clear Liquid
d. Shampoo with Gel
e. OTC Shampoo
f. Plant based Liquid Shampoo3
· Hair Anatomy and Physiology:
Mammals are known for having hair, which serves a number of purposes. Examples include physical defense, thermal insulation, camouflage, perspiration and sebum dispersion, tactile and sensory abilities, and social interactions.4 Macrostructurally speaking, hair differs between ethnic groups and individuals in terms of length, diameter, color, and cross-sectional shape.5
· Parts of the Hair:
The hair contains the matrix and dermal papilla. The matrix that surrounds the dermal papillae contains all of the active cells needed for hair growth and development of the various parts of the hair, especially the outer root sheath, inner root sheath, and hair shaft. The dermal papilla also contains androgen receptors that are sensitive to the presence of DTH and regulate the hair cycle and hair growth.6
Fig 1: Diagram of the hair follicle and hair shaft from anatomy and physiology
1. The Hair Shaft:
The diameter of a man's individual hair shafts can vary from 15 to 120pm, depending on the type of hair and the location of the follicle. Hair contains the sulfur-rich protein family known as keratin. In the hair shaft, keratin creates lengthy strands that bind together extremely strong.7
This makes the construction very sturdy and strong. The innermost part of the hair shaft contains the medulla, an unstructured and disorganized region that is not always there.6
It is encircled by the cortex and serves as the central axis of some hairs. It has a column of big keratinized and vacuolated cells. The cortex is far more ordered and structured than the medulla. The majority of the hair fiber composition is represented by the cortex, the peripheral portion, which is composed of roughly 50–60% macrofibrils, which are rods of microfibrils contained in a matrix and are crucial to themechanical and physical characteristics of hair.The cortex, which is located between the cuticle and the medulla (in ii hairs), makes up the majority of the hair shaft and contains melanin.The quantity, distribution, and kind of melanin granules in the cortex, which also contains melanin determine the colour of hair.8
Fig 2: Histomorphology of the hair follicle from The hair follicle as a dynamic miniogram
The primary structure for hair growth is the follicle. The outer root sheath (ORS), inner root sheath (IRS), and hair bulb make up the follicle. Multipotent stem cells, specifically keratinocyte and melanocyte stem cells, have been found to be present in the outer root sheath (ORS), which is home to keratinocytes. Conversely, the inner root sheath is composed of three layers: the cuticle layer, Huxley's layer, and Henle's layer.
The part of the follicle that actively generates hair is called the hair bulb. The follicular dermal papilla, which is enclosed by the hair bulb, is believed to be one of the most crucial components in directing the growth of the hair follicle and forming a certain size and color of hair shaft.5
There are three separate zones within the hair follicle. Hair cells are biologically generated in the innermost zone, which is in and around the bulb. The keratinization zone, also known as the keratogenous zone, is the next area, just above the bulb, where the hair solidifies and hardens. Dehydrated, cornified cells that have grown into fibrils and are connected by an intercellular matrix make up the hair shaft.7
3. Hair Growth
Along with sweat glands, sebaceous glands, and nails, hair is a protective bodily part that is regarded as an accessory structure of the epidermis. Protection, sensory abilities, thermoregulation, and sexual appeal are all influenced by hair. The dermal papillae (DP), which include fibroblasts and are found at the deepest end of the follicle, the matrix cells, as well as the terminally developed and dead keratinocytes form the complex organ called as hair. It is believed that fibroblasts are crucial for the maintenance of hair growth as well as the induction of newhair follicles. Additionally, it has been shown that DPC-derived substances have an impact on the cells around them, which in turn stimulate hair growth. Anagen (growth phase), catagen (regression phase), and telogen (resting phase) are the three phases that make up the cyclical process of hair growth.
Fig 3: Natural Hair Growth Cycle
Problems Related to Human Hair
1. Hair loss
2. Weathering
3. Dandruff
The growth cycle of hair is frequently predictable. During the anagen phase, which can last anywhere from two to six years or longer, the hair grows, and during the telogen phase, it rests for about three months. At the end of the telogen stage, the hair falls out and is replaced by new hair. The average person sheds about 100 hairs per day. Hair loss is an upsetting condition that can caused by variety of medical, nutritional, or physiological problems.9
2. Weathering:
The slow degradation of the hair's cortex and cuticle from the root to the tip due to everyday wear and tear is known as weathering. Even though every hair ages to a certain extent. Deteriorated cuticles, longitudinal fissures called split ends, and transverse fissures that resemble the trichorrhexis nodosa nodes are examples of weathering features.
3. Dandruff
The most common cosmetic issue and a significant societal concern in both industrialized and developing nations is dandruff. Because of the loss of epidermal cells, dandruff is a persistent scalp problem that results in xfoliation, itching, and redness.12
It is evident that the fungi Malassezia stricta and M. globose are the source of dandruff.
There are two primary forms of dandruff based on the symptoms.
It is also referred as pityriasis simplex described by excessive development of minute scales which accumulate on the scalp area. The hair loss in this of dandruff is not excessive. There is no visible skin irritation.
Excessive skin cell shedding from the scalp is known as dandruff, and it is frequently associated with the presence of the yeast-like fungus Malassezia. By feeding on the natural oils of the scalp, this fungus causes discomfort and accelerates the skin's cell turnover. Dandruff can also result from a number of factors, including dry skin, seborrheic dermatitis, sensitivity to hair products, and specific medical disorders.
1) Malassezia: This yeast-like fungus is a common scalp inhabitant that can grow out of control in certain people, causing discomfort and accelerated skin cell turnover.
2) Sebum: Malassezia feeds on the natural oils produced by the scalp
3) Cell turnover: A deposit of dead cells that flake off as dandruff results from the scalp's skin cells renewing more quickly.
4) Inflammation: Redness and itching of the scalp can be caused by excessive oil production, fast skin shedding, and interactions with Malassezia.14
Mechanism of Dandruff:
· Malassezia 20, 21: This fungus lives on the scalp by nature and feeds on sebum. Oleic acid, which is released when sebum is broken down, can irritate the scalp and hasten the skin's cell turnover.
· Increased Skin Cell Turnover 21: People with dandruff experience a faster renewal of skin cells on the scalp.
· Inflammation 23: The combination of the fungus, excess sebum, and accelerated skin cell turnover can lead to inflammation.
1. Cleansing Properties
2. Improving hair hygiene
3. Treating scalp irritation
4. Treatment for hair loss
5. Relieves itch and irritation15
A) Antidandruff agent
B) Anionic surfactant
C) pH adjuster
D) Conditioner
E) Preservative
F) Colourant
G) Antioxidant
H) Water
A) Antidandruff agent: Small amounts of active chemicals that briefly come into touch with the scalp are incorporated into medicated shampoos. Eg;Shikakai for instance.
B) Anionic surfactant: Excellent foaming qualities are possessed by anionic surfactants, which are mainly found in mild detergents. Sodium Lauryl is one example.
C) pH adjuster: These substances balance out most detergents' alkaline pH, which can cause the hair shaft to swell. Sodium Hydroxide is one example.
D) Conditioner: Conditioners give hair a shiny, manageable, and anti-static quality. Fatty alcohols, esters, mineral or vegetable oils, or humectants are usually their constituents. Glycerin, silicone-based substances like dimethicone, and hydrolyzed animal protein are examples of common conditioning additives.
E) Preservative: Water-based shampoo formulae are prone to microbial contamination, so preservatives must be added to stop the growth of mold. Methyl Paraben, for instance.
F) Colourant: Coloring shampoos offer the ability to actively dye hair. Among these, somecan produce dramatic color changes. Example: Safranin
G) Antioxidants: A chemical process that generates free radicals and can harm cellular structures. Compounds like ascorbic acid (vitamin C) act to counteract these effects.
Example: Neem Powder.
H) Water: The main component that makes up 60–80% of the solution in all shampoo formulas.
Description of Ingredients:
1. Marshmallow:
Synonym: Althaea root, White mallow, Mallow root.
Biological source: The biological source of marshmallow root is the Althaea officinalis plant.
Family: This perennial herb belongs to the Malvaceae family.
Uses: Moisturizing the scalp.
Soothing irrited skin.
Fig 4: Marshmallow
2. Methi:
Synonyms: Methi, Methika, Chandrika.
Biological Source: Methi consists of dried seeds of Trigonellafoenum-graecum.
Family: Legumes.15
Use: Methi seed is known to have many benefits for health and hair care.
Fig 5: Methi
3. AMLA
Synonyms: Phyllanthusemblica, Indian gooseberry, Phyllanthusemblica
Biological resources: Dried and fresh fruit of the Phyllanthusemblica
Family: Euphorbiaceae
Uses: Strengthen scalp and hair.
It reduces premature hair pigment loss or graying.
Fig 6: Amla
4. Shikakai
Synonym: Vimala, Bhuriphena.
Biological Source: There is a dry, gelatinous ooze from the trunk and branches of Acacia arabica.
Family: Legumes.
Uses: Clean hair.
Add more light.
Prevents hair loss.
Fig 7: Shikakai
5. Orange Peel:
Synonyms: Orange peel, Bigarade orange, Seville orange, porcelain orange, bitter orange peel
Biological sources:
Family: Rutaceae Contains not less than 2.5% essential oil. Chemical composition: Limonene (90%) Citral (4%) Vitamin C Pectin Hesperidin Orange yellow orange peel powder and orange peel powder (both are glycosides that cause a bitter taste)
Uses: Orange peel powder is very good for cooling the hair.
Apart from reducing dandruff.
Fig 8: Orange Peel
7. Rose Water
Synonym: Rose
Biological Source: Rose oil, Rosaceae
Family: Rosaceae
Uses: It is obtained from rose flowers.
There should be no damaged hair.20
Fig 9: Rose Water
Method of Preparation:
1.Weighing: All required herbal ingredient for shampoo preparation were accurately weighed individually by using digital balance.
2. Mixing: They are prepared by simple mixing process in case of clear liquid shampoo. The detergent is first dissolved in half of with first part other of water and then perfume is added last. Mix all the ingredient together and perfume finally to mixed and triturate further.
3. Storage: Store in suitable container.
Evaluation Parameter of Shampoo
1. Physical appearance: Developed formulation was evaluated for their clarity, colour and odour. All evaluation were reported and discussed.
2. Determination Of pH: Developed formulation was diluted using distilled water to prepare a sample with 10% concentration. The prepared sample was checked for pH using a digital pH meter at room temperature 30+_2°C.
3. Measurement of Viscosity: The viscosity of shampoo was determined by Brookfield Viscometer LVDV prime-1. The viscosity of shampoo was measured at room temperature i.e .30+_2°C with varying rpm and torque.
4. Surface tension measurement: Dilute the shampoo using distilled water to fix 10% as concentration. Measurements were carried out using stalagmometer. Dip the flattened end of stalagmometer in to beaker containing sample of developed shampoo and suck it until the level reaches the mark. Fix that in the stand and allow the sample to run slowly from the mark. Count the number of drops formed when level of liquid reaches from A to B. Repeat the experiment with distilled water. The data was calculated using following equation,
W1 is weight of empty beaker. w2 is weight of beaker with distilled water
W3 is weight of beaker with shampoo solution. N1 is no. of drops distilled water.
N2 is no. of drops of shampoo solution. R1 is surface tension of distilled water at room temperature. And R2 is surface tension of shampoo solution.
5. Foaming ability and foam stability: Cylinder shake method with slight modification used for determining foaming ability .50 ml of the 1% shampoo solution was put into 250 ml graduated measuring cylinder and covered with hand. Measuring cylinder was shaken for 1 min. The total volume for the foam content after 1 min shaking was recorded. The procedure for continue for 5 minute.
6. Determination of percentage solidcontent: A clean dry china dish was weighed and added with 4 grams of shampoo. The dish with shampoo was weighed. The exact weight of the shampoo was calculated. The china dish with shampoo was placed on the hot plate until the liquid portion was evaporated. The weight after drying was calculated.
7. Skin irritancy: Skin irritancy of shampoo can be checked by taking small amount of product on skin , after few minute to check whether local irritation or any inflammatory reaction are produced or not. 21
CONCLUSION:
The goal of this study to develop a shampoo that promotr hair development while reducing hair dandruff and hair loss during combing and safer than conditioner. Herbal shampoos are made from aqueous extracts of plants that are commonly used as shampoos in traditional culture.Tomlesser hair loss or protein loss ,apply heat treatment.In order to achieve better outcomes ,current research substituents natural extracts such as shikakai and amla for cationic regulators .This projects primary objective is to develope a long lasting and potent shampoo devoid of the artificial components frequently found in these formulation .We conduct through testing to assess the effectiveness of the shampoos we manufacture as high quality goods.
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Received on 22.02.2025 Revised on 13.09.2025 Accepted on 09.01.2026 Published on 18.04.2026 Available online from April 25, 2026 Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2026; 17(1):44-50. DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2026.00009 ©A and V Publications All right reserved
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